Thursday, June 17:  Trading Peninsulas

Hit the Dingle internet shop after breakfast. Not all the machines were working, there was a short line and if I wanted to plug in my machine it would be over a telephone line. To David’s disappointment, we punted and would take our chances in Kenmare. Left town along the southern shore of the Dingle Peninsula and then were perplexed in Castlemaine. Someone was setting out chairs at Jackie Dugan’s (perhaps Jackie himself?) so I pulled up and asked directions to R561. “Being from around here, I don’t know any road numbers. Where do you want to go?” We told him the next town on our putative route. He inquired further and gave us advice on the best way to go all the way to Kenmare. When Pat was skeptical, he said “Now why you being so negative? Its the best road.” The Irish have indeed been the most helpful and friendly when we’ve stopped to ask questions.

The promised “by-pass” in Killarney led us right into the center of town and a bit of misdirection led to 2.5 circuits through the small one-way system in the center of town. Once out the other side, we coursed through Killarney National Park, up and then down into Kenmare. With no good address and no map, we toured town by car to get a feel for the place (a triangular one-way system with loads of businesses on two of the three streets). This is my new strategy for entering a small tourist town. No luck stumbling fortuitously on our B&B though. We parked near town, located the TI by foot and they got us a map and marked a location across the river for our B&B. By now it was lunchtime, so we consulted Lonely Planet and ended up at Jam for sandwiches, luscious desserts, milk and coffee. No chips.

Drove just outside of town across the Kenmare River where it enters the bay to find Water’s Edge, a “purpose-built” B&B that is just a couple years old. Two spacious, well-equipped rooms, a nice backyard and a friendly dog and cat. If it wasn’t a 15-minute walk into town it would be perfect. We rested, did journals and then walked into town for some Internet at the Post Office. A bit early for dinner, Pat did some shopping (a Book of Kells scarf) and then we went searching for a place to watch the England-Switzerland soccer match in the Euro 2004 championship. First attempt, and The Square Pint fit the bill. Three screens, no crowd and Murphy’s on tap. England 3-0. (Photo 231)

We economized on dinner at a “fast-food” joint for burgers and a few fried items (hashbrowns and garlic mushrooms). No chips. The boys and Pat watched Harry Potter I after dinner, noting as many filming locations as possible.